Allantoin

INCI: Allantoin

Appearance: white powder

Origin: comfrey root extract

Common Uses: Creams, Lotions, Skin Care, Pharmaceutical and Dermatological Preparations

Benefits:

Angie's Note's:

I love adding Allantoin to creams and lotions because of its ability for relieving skin irritation and stimulating healthy tissue formation.

When deciding whether to add an ingredient to a formulation, I will make it with and without the ingredient I am testing. Allantoin is definitely an ingredient that makes a difference.

Avocado Oil

INCI: Persea gratissima (Avocado) Oil

Appearance: slightly greenish liquid

Origin: pulp of the avocado fruit

Common Uses: Skin Care, Soap, Moisturizers, Cosmetics, Lip Care

Benefits:

Angie's Note's:

Avocado Oil is an extremely penetrating oil. It is high in many vitamin and nutrients. It has the ability to soothe dry itchy skin, keep skin moisturized, delivery high doses of nutrients, heal and regenerate skin, and act as a natural bacteria killer. Avocado's are great food and even better skincare!

Beeswax

INCI: Beeswax

Appearance: chips taken from blocks of whitish to yellow hard wax

Origin: substance secreted from honey bees

Common Uses: Skin Care, Moisturizers, Skin Protector

Benefits:

Angie's Note's:

Beeswax is a very versatile ingredient. It has a wide range of use from a stiffener to an emollient to an emulsifier. When added to oils, it helps the oils adhere to the skin by forming a protective barrier for hours before being absorbed into the skin.

Castor Oil

INCI: Ricinus communis (Castor) Seed Oil

Appearance: thick pale yellow liquid

Origin: seed of a bean from the castor plant

Common Uses: Soap, Cosmetics, Pharmaceutical, Hair Care

Benefits:

Angie's Note's:

When I first started researching oils, I was very surprised to learn of the many amazing properties of Castor Oil. Previously, all I knew about Castor Oil is it was used in jokes about "Home Remedy" laxatives!

Hardly just your grandmother's home remedy, Castor Oil is a highly humectant oil and diverse oil. It is extremely thick and creates a great natural barrier between the skin and the environment. It's effective in penetrating the skin and carrying other ingredients with it. It attracts and retains moisture where applied which makes it a highly desirable in skin care.

Cocoa Butter

INCI: Theobroma cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter

Appearance: yellowish hard chunks

Origin: solid fat expressed from the roasted seed of the cocoa seed

Common Uses: Skin Care, Hair Care, Food, Lip Care

Benefits:

Angie's Note's:

Cocoa Butter has a distinct chocolate smell! It is very hard and brittle but will melt upon contact with body heat. It has fabulous moisturizing properties and has been used for generations with much success. Cocoa Butter also works a skin protector by adhering to the skin. Cocoa Butter is a Natural Spa Creation favorite and we put it to work here!

Coconut Milk

INCI: Coconut Milk

Appearance: white liquid

Origin: milk of coconut

Common Uses: Food, Soap

Benefits:

Angie's Note's:

Coconut Milk is a great vegan source of alpha hydroxy acid. The Lactic Acid dissolves the "glue" that holds our dead skin cells to our healthier skin. The sugar content in the coconut milk also boosts the lather in soap.

Coconut Oil

INCI: Cocos nucifera (Coconut) Oil

Appearance: white semi-solid - liquefies at 76 degrees

Origin: derived from the flesh of coconuts

Common Uses: Soaps, Ointments, Sunscreen, Creams, Lipstick, Cosmetics, Hair Products.

Benefits:

Angie's Note's

Coconut Oil, Fractionated

INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Appearance: very clear liquid

Origin: the medium-chain triglycerides (MCTs) of coconut oil

Common Uses: Skin Care, Moisturizers, Massage Oil, Sun Care, Food

Benefits:

Angie's Note's:

Fractionated Coconut Oil is very stable, light moisturizing oil. It is able to penetrate the skin and aids other oil to do the same. Its long shelf life, moisturizing properties, aid to other oils and non-staining make this oil a great choice for massage oils.

Conditioning Emulsifier

INCI: Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol

Appearance: hard white pastilles

Origin: derived from the natural plant oil Colza, more commonly known as Rapeseed Oil

Common Uses: Emulsifier - Skin Care, Hair Care, Cosmetics

Benefits:

Angie's Note's:

Conditioning Emulsifier is a great addition in moisturizers as well as hair conditioners. In lotions and creams, it thickens as well as conditions. In hair conditioners, it adds bounce, spring and superb conditioning. Conditioning Emulsifier is exceptionally mild which makes it ideal in leave-on forumulas.

Distilled Water

INCI: Distilled Water

Appearance: clear liquid

Origin: water

Common Uses: Dilution, Food

Benefits:

Angie's Note's:

I always use distilled water in everything requiring water. Tap water contains too many chemicals and impurities!

Emulsifying Wax

INCI: Emulsifying Wax NF

Appearance: hard white pastilles

Origin: a safe non-toxic compound derived from natural vegetable plant sources

Common Uses: Emulsifier - binds water to oils. Skin Care, Cosmetics

Benefits:

Angie's Note's:

An emulsifier is a compound that joins oil and water to form a stable mixture called an emulsion. Think of mayonnaise (an emulsion) - the oil (oil) and lemon juice (water) are joined by the egg (emulsifier). Lotions and creams are also examples of emulsions. Without the use of an emulsifier the lotion or cream would separate into water and oil. It is the emulsifier that keeps everything stabilized and together.

Essential Oils

INCI: Essential Oil or Fragrance

Appearance: depending on oil -clear to dark liquid

Origin: extracts from plants/animal

Common Uses: Fragrance, Essential Oil Aromatherapy Properties

Benefits:

Angie's Note's:

I love essential oils! They contain many varying properties. A Essential Oil Database is being complied. If you have any questions in the meantime, please contact us directly. We are always happy to answer questions.

Fragrance

INCI: Fragrance

Appearance: clear, yellowish or brownish oil

Origin: Synthetically created fragrances derived from various natural and synthetic sources

Common Uses: Perfume, Soaps, Skin Care, Hair Care, Cosmetics

Benefits:

Angie's Note's:

I am very picky about which fragrance oil sources I will use in my products. I only use high quality cosmetic grade fragrance oils. Some people who are against any synthetic ingredients will dismiss fragrance oils in favor of only using only essential oils but I would have to strongly disagree. I am a huge fan of essential oils and use them daily in formulating products as well as holistically in my everyday life -but essential oils and fragrance oils really serve a different purposes. Essential oils must be used responsibly. They do have drug like effects upon the body which is highly beneficial and desirable for many reasons yet at times can be contraindicated for certain conditions. Fragrance oils are a great way to obtain a desirable natural smell in a safe synthetic formulation. People who report allergies and skin conditions have long lived with fragrance-free being their only option. Many of these people are able to use cosmetic grade fragrance oils and are excited about being able to reintroduce products with laboratory created skin safe fragrances into their lives.

Glycerin, (Vegetable)

INCI: Glycerin

Appearance: clear, sweet syrupy liquid

Origin: derived from vegetable oils, a natural by-product of cold process soap

Common Uses: Soap, Skin Care, Cosmetics, Food, Pharmaceutical

Benefits:

Angie's Note's:

Glycerin binds water to itself and adds spreadability thus making it an excellent addition to moisturizers. Glycerin is extremely drawn to water. When pouring Glycerin into water, the glycerin will almost jump into the water on its own.

Beware of "Glycerin" soaps. Glycerin is a natural by-product of the soapmaking process - not to be confused with "Glycerin/Transparent" soap. Most commercial soaps marketed as natural "glycerin" soap contain far less glycerin than natural produced real bar of soap. A typical "glycerin" bar is not soap made of glycerin but typically a chemical cocktail with a dab of glycerin inserted for label appeal.

Interesting Glycerin fact: The secret ingredient in "naughty" products such as edible massage oils, warming lotions and edible body butters is...Glycerin. Why? Glycerin has interesting natural properties. When glycerin is applied to the skin, blowing a gentle stream of air will create a cooling sensation while exhaling a breath onto or the friction caused by rubbing it in will create a very warming sensation.

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

INCI: Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

Appearance: amber liquid

Origin: Wheat Protein with grafted natural lipids

Common Uses: Creams, Lotion, Hair Products, Skin Care

Benefits:

Angie's Note's:

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein is a great additive in creams, lotions and hair products. It has the unique ability to add moisture as well as form a natural breathable film to retain moisture. It is also great in facial care as it helps minimize pores for a porcelain skin look.

Jojoba Oil

INCI: Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil

Appearance: golden liquid

Origin: cold pressed from the nuts of the jojoba tree

Common Uses: Skin Care, Perfume, Cosmetics, Hair Care, Massage Oils

Benefits:

Angie's Note's:

Jojoba oil is actually not an oil but instead a natural wax. It works excellent in skin care because it closely resembles our own skin sebum. Jojoba oil is excellent in facial moisturizers as well as body moisturizers because it is so mild, absorbs quickly, natural ph balancer, and does not clog pores. For generations Jojoba oil has been well-known as medicinal oil used for treating eye and throat infections and skin disorders.

While I use Jojoba Oil in many formulations, it is a predominate oil in our massage and shave oils. Skin loves jojoba oil!

Kukui Nut Oil

INCI: Aleurites moluccana (Kukui) Nut Oil

Appearance: pale clear to yellowish liquid

Origin: pressed from the nut of the tropical kukui tree

Common Uses: Skin Care, Moisturizers, Lip Care, Hair Care

Benefits:

Angie's Note's:

Kukui Nut oil forms a semi-permeable that not only protects the skin from drying, but also allows some moisture to escape. This allows skin to heal naturally. It has been proven to relieve symptoms of psoriasis, eczema and many other skin disorders.

Macadamia Nut Oil

INCI: Macadamia ternifolia Seed Oil

Appearance: clear yellowish liquid

Origin: cold pressing of Macadamia Nuts

Common Uses: Skin Care, Moisturizers, Hair Care, Massage Oil, Sun Care

Benefits:

Angie's Note's:

Macadamia Nut Oil is a great light moisturizer with a powerful punch. It is lightweight yet deeply penetrating and moisturizing. It is very protective of our skin and mimics our own natural sebum. It fights skin aging and works to keep moisture in our skin. This oil is great directly on skin because of it's amazing properties.

Meadowfoam Seed Oil, Organic

INCI: Limnanthes alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil

Appearance: clear light golden liquid

Origin: Oil extracted from the seeds of the Meadowfoam plant

Common Uses: Skin Care, Hair Care, Moisturizers, Lip Care

Benefits:

Angie's Note's:

I use this oil in most formulations. Meadowfoam Seed Oil has incredibly desirable properties in skin and hair care. It provides excellent moisturizing without being greasy, it adheres to the skin yet still allows the skin to breathe, it remains on the skin for long periods of time, and it is an extremely stable oil.

This oil re-moisturizes skin, hair and lips with very dramatic results. This oil is a formulators dream! Your skin will be changed for the better when using products that contain this oil.

Interesting Meadowfoam note: Meadowfoam, or Limnanthes alba , is a white flowered, herbaceous plant which gets its' name because of its resemblance to a meadow of foam when blooming.

Olive Oil

INCI: Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil

Appearance: pale yellow to greenish yellow liquid

Origin: Cold Pressed from Olives

Common Uses: Cooking, Soaps, Cosmetics, Shampoo, Hair Coloring, Lipsticks.

Benefits:

Angie's Notes:

I love olive oil! Olive oil is not only healthy for cooking but also for your skin. I use it as the predominate oil in my soap base as well as in many other products because of its unique humectant (a substance that promotes retention of moisture) properties.

Olive oil been used for its various properties since ancient times. It helps prevent the loss of your skin's natural moisture, softens skin and attracts external moisture to your skin yet does not interfere with your skin's natural functions. It helps keep your skin soft, supple and younger looking. Olive oil tops my "must have" list.

Interesting Olive Oil facts:

Palm Kernel Oil

INCI: Elaeis guineensis (Palm) Kernel Oil

Appearance: hard brittle white solid

Origin: extracted from the kernels of the palm fruit

Common Uses: Soaps, Ointments, edible confectionery items

Benefits:

Angie's Notes

Palm Kernel oil is one of the 2 "lathering oils" I use in my soap base. I use it in my soaps to for its ability to produce bubbly lather and a hard soap bar.

Palm Oil

INCI: Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil

Appearance: Yellowish solid to semi solid depending on temperature

Origin: extracted from the fleshy portion of the palm fruit

Common Uses: Soap, Pharmaceuticals, Food shortening, Cosmetics, Chocolates and Candles.

Benefits:

Angie's Notes:

I use Palm Oil in my soap base to create a hard bar of soap that cleans well and is also very mild.

Preservative

INCI: Phenoxyethanol [and] Caprylyl Glycol [and] Sorbic Acid

Appearance: clear liquid

Origin: Synthetic Preservative

Common Uses: Preservative

Benefits:

Angie's Note's:

Preservatives keep products clean and clear from yeast, molds, germs and bacteria. Ideally , I would love to live in a world where I could create products for sale without synthetic preservatives but in reality an effective preservative system is a must in any product that contains water or may be exposed to water. Shelf life equals the need for preservation.

Before I started making and formulating my own products, I never really thought about how much I abused bath, body and beauty products with just normal usage. I thought nothing of throwing a tube of lotion in my glove box during the Texas heat. I gave no thought to germs I might be introducing when I dipped my fingers in to a jar of cream. I gave no thought to rubbing products into an open cut on my hand. If your product has an effective preservative system, these situations do not pose a problem for you but if your products don't then you are putting your health at risk. Without the proper system in place, heat can render a system ineffective, germs introduced can quickly breed and multiply and nasty things can enter your skin through open wounds thus setting yourself up for infection and other unpleasant things.

Now I will admit when I first started formulating, I did have high hopes to use "all natural" preservatives. While many natural of them show promise, they are limited in their effectiveness. Just one example is Grapeseed oil. It is a germ killer but it will not pass stability and challenge testing because it will not kill enough of the germs. Some essential Oils have great anti-germ, anti-bacterial and anti-viral properties. I use sprays on hard surfaces and sprays dispersed in the air all the time in my home as a natural way to help combat germs and viruses. A higher concentration spray is very different from applying it to your skin. When used in small amounts appropriate for skin usage , essential oils can and do have positive effects on the skin but to use enough to preserve a product would not be a good idea for the skin. Natural does not always mean safe.

Bottom line:

Preservation systems are a controversial issue with makers of natural products. I believe a balanced perspective is crucial in formulating a product that is healthy for your skin yet at the same time effectively preserved against yeast, germs and bacteria. Some of the most effective natural and healthy ingredients make excellent fuel for germs!

I choose to use a synthetic preservation system at this time because after much testing and research -it is the best choice. I need for my preservation system to always perform as intended. The preservatives I have chosen are very safe and effective and are chosen for their paraben-free and formaldehyde-free compositions.

Rice Bran Oil

INCI: Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil

Appearance: yellowish orange liquid

Origin: Coating of rice grains

Common Uses: Soap, Hair Care, Skin Care, Lipstick, Sunscreen, Cooking

Benefits:

Angie's Note's:

Rice Bran Oil is another of my favorite formulating oils. It is great in soap to up the bubble factor as well as a moisturizing addition to emulsions. RBO is high in antioxidant properties, rich in vitamins, including Vitamin E, and rich in minerals. It nourishes and softens the skin. It is one of the most gently oils and is particularly good for mature, delicate or sensitive skin. Rice Bran Oil is another of my "must have" oils.

In addition to formulating with Rice Bran oil, I also love to cook with it. RBO provides many of the same health benefits and qualities as Olive oil yet it has a much higher smoke point. It has a wonderfully light taste.

Shea Butter

INCI: Butyrospermum Parkii

Appearance: Depending on region can be white to beige to yellowish in color. In texture can range from creamy to hard butter that melts on contact.

Origin: Shea nut from Karite tree in Africa . Shea butter is the fat extracted from the seed that is removed from the shea nut.

Common Uses: Skin Care, Moisturizers, Soap, Baby Care, Ointments, Hair Care

Benefits:

Angie's Note's:

I can't say enough about Shea Butter. It is one of nature's most powerful resources. Used in Africa for generations, it is filled with vitamins and nutrients to calm, soothe and heal irritated skin.

Naturally high in Vitamin A and E, Shea Butter helps repair skin damage. The high amounts of phytosterols, and triterpenes in Shea Butter also aid in skin allergies while the phenolic acids work to protect the cells.

Shea Butter is excellent straight on the skin and also in products. I use it in most our products because of its effectiveness, mildness and versatility.

Vitamin E, Natural

INCI: Tocopherol

Appearance: yellow to red viscous liquid

Origin: essential fat-soluble vitamin

Common Uses: Skincare, Moisturizers, Sun Care products, Pharmaceutical, Food

Benefits:

Angie's Note's:

Topically applied, natural Vitamin E not only provides a highly effective moisturizing properties, it also stabilizes oils against oxidation. It works on our skin in much the same way it works internally in our bodies.

Research has shown Vitamin E to be extremely healing on burns and other ailments. It has been shown to heal, repair and protect skin.

Wheat Germ Oil

INCI: Triticum vilgare (Wheat) Germ Oil

Appearance: dark amber viscous liquid

Origin: golden germ of wheat

Common Uses: Skin Care, Hair Care, Moisturizers, Cosmetics, Lip Care

Benefits:

Angie's Note's:

Wheat Germ oil is extremely high in vitamin A, B1, D, lecithin, protein. The emollients in Wheat Germ oil help make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce roughness, cracking and irritation and retard aging.

Wheat Starch

INCI: Wheat Starch, modified

Appearance: fine white powder

Origin: Wheat

Common Uses: Skin Care, Cosmetics

Benefits:

Angie's Note's:

Wheat starch is an ingredient used in products that contain high percentages of oils and butter to minimize an oily feeling without interfering with absorption.